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Travel | Valle de Bravo: An upscale refuge near Mexico City | Seattle Times Newspaper

23/02/13 13:09

Winner of a 2010 Pulitzer Prize
Originally published February 28, 2011 at 8:00 AM | Page modified February 28, 2011 at 1:41 PM

Valle de Bravo: An upscale refuge near Mexico City
Valle de Bravo — a lakeside community of 57,000 in the pine-covered hills two hours west of Mexico City —feels almost quintessentially small-town Mexico.

By FREDA MOON New York Times News Service A band of tubas, trumpets and saxophones played as a lone, wide-grinning inebriate swayed to the wailing horns. There were balloons, popcorn stands and roastedpeanut vendors. Children on scooters whipped through the crowd, chased by a scrawny, yapping mutt. Teenage girls danced among themselves while youngmen sipped micheladas — beer spiked with lime, salt and chili — from one-liter Styrofoam cups. The smell of cotton candy and churros was everywhere. It was 8 p.m. on a recent Sunday in Valle de Bravo, Mexico, and nearly every stretch of bench, brick wall or stone step had been claimed. Families, couples, kids and dogs — they were all there, listening to music beneath ash trees, African tulips andjacarandas in the town's leafy central plaza. On nights like this, Valle de Bravo — a lakeside community of 57,000 in the pine-covered hills two hours west of Mexico City — feels almost quintessentially small-town Mexico. But since 1971, when one of Latin America's most famous countercultural events — the marijuana-scented Festival Rock y Ruedas de Avandaro, often called the Woodstock of Mexico —put it on the map, the town has stood apart. Though that small-town vibe still exists, Valle de Bravo has morphed in recent years into a cosmopolitan weekend refuge for Mexico City's elite — corporate chieftains, celebrities and the idle rich — who have carved sharp-edged modern villas into the rocky cliffs that line the lakeshore. Just as well-to-do New Yorkers flock to the Hamptons on summerweekends, wealthy residents of the capital descend on Valle de Bravo, drawn by its natural beauty, old-world charm and striking religious sites. And although they come to escape the city, they also bring elements of the city with them. The town's main drag, Joaquin Arcadio Pagaza, is lined with the staples of affluent urban life: coffeehouses serving espresso, fine art galleries, high-end housewaresshops, trendy bars and white tablecloth restaurants. In a town where the tallest building that's not a church is a three-story bookstore, where terra-cotta tiles adorn
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Travel | Valle de Bravo: An upscale refuge near Mexico City | Seattle Times Newspaper

23/02/13 13:09

nearly every roof and ATVs are a common wayof getting around, that means that Valle de Bravo is two towns in one — at once urbane and rustic. On the Monday I arrived at the town's main tourist office, the municipal government had been shut down by what seemed to be a labor dispute and the building's gates were chained shut. Outside, well-dressed tourism office workers were using their day off to give the building's exterior a paint job.I'd come for advice on places to visit in the nearby countryside, and they noticed me standing confused outside. Excited by an excuse to go for an unhurried drive on a weekday afternoon, the workers put down their brushes and piled into a fire engine red 1970s-era Volkswagen Thing that belonged to Oscar, one of the employees. Suddenly, I had a host of guides at my disposal. Soon, along with my newtravel companions — Oscar, Pepe, Jose Luis and Eva — I was chugging past roadside stalls selling fresh-cut flowers, fruit juice and pine furniture, as we climbed the long hill that leads east out of town. From this vantage point, Valle de Bravo's towering cathedral looked tiny and Lake Avandaro, a large man-made reservoir that supplies water to Mexico City, took on a new scale — it looked...
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