Especificaciones Tecnicas

CVR8/CVR10/CVR12/CVR15/CVR18
Congratulations! You have just purchased one of the most flexible subwoofers yet from KICKER. Your CompVR sub is designed to give you great bass performance in a wide variety of applications. These installations instructions will help you get the most out of your new KICKER sub. Thanks for buying KICKER. Enjoy!

Features
Hemispherical Polymineral Cone withInverted Structural Dome (ISD) means high rigidity under pressure for accurate linear control, low enclosure pressure loss to reduce "pump-down", high internal damping, and excellent sunlight, pollution and moisture resistance. Double-Stitched Surround prevents cone/surround separation at high excursions. Blackened Pole Piece maximizes heat transfer for long voice coil life. Extended Pole Piece allowscooler operation for superior power handling and magnetic field linearity around voice coil gap for enhanced control. Vented Pole Piece relieves low bass-robbing pressure under the center dome. Extended Backplate prevents damaging voice coil "bottoming". Perimeter Venting for measurably lower operating temperature and freer cone motion. Hi-Temp Kaptonfi Voice Coil Former protects against warped,rubbing voice coils. Dual Long-Throw Voice Coils A speaker can obtain extreme Xmax only when the voice coil is long enough and can sustain the stress. Spring-Loaded Nickel Plated Terminals for solid connections with large gauge speaker wire. High Power Lead Wires resist lead breakage and reduce power robbing resistance losses.

The material of choice for building a strong box is 3/4" MDF (MediumDensity Fiberboard). Cross bracing is a good idea to help reduce panel vibration. Strips of 3/4" by 2" wood work well for tying the panels together. HDF (High Density Fiberboard) is also good as is a really good grade of plywood (such as marine grade 7 or 13 ply). Regular particle board is not very good for speaker enclosures. It is flexible and will crumble when you try to screw the woofer in. Agood grade of wood glue is recommended for joining two pieces of wood together along with 1-1/4 to 1 1/2" drywall screws or 1-1/2" staples. A fastener placed about every 3" will hold the box together good enough until the glue dries. After assembling the box and allowing the glue to set up, use silicone sealer to make absolutely sure the corners are perfectly sealed. Hint: When assembling theenclosure, build the whole enclosure except for the rear baffle opposite the woofer cutout. This way you can easily reach inside to apply the silicone sealer. Once this is done, put the rear panel on and seal it by reaching through the woofer cutout. A common source of air leaks is the connecting wire for the woofers. Terminal cups are commonly available and are recommended. They provide an airtightmeans for bringing the wire into the enclosure and allow for easy wiring changes. An alternative is to drill a hole slightly larger than the wire and seal carefully with silicone sealer. Do not disturb the silicone until it has set up. Moving the wire before the silicone has set up will usually cause an air leak. If you carpet the enclosure it is important to cut the carpet around the woofer opening.It is hard to get a good seal if you have both the gasket and the carpet between the woofer and the wood. On a sealed enclosure it is easy to test the seal of the box. Push the cone in all the way and let it go. If the seal is good, the cone should take at least five seconds to return to the center position. If the cone spring back faster that that you have a leak somewhere in the enclosure.Sometimes you can hear air escaping around the woofer or at one of the joints in the enclosure. If the box itself leaks take the woofer out and check the silicone seal all around the inside. If the air is leaking out around the woofer try adding a flexible sealer like plumber's putty or rope caulk. Don't use silicone sealers around the woofer. For more information and additional box plans, see the...