Geografía

Food Culture in

South America
JOSE RAFAEL LOVERA
Translated by Ainoa Larrauri

Food Culture around the World
Ken Albala, Series Editor

GREENWOOD PRESS
Westport, Connecticut

-

London

Library of Congress C ataloging^in-Publication D ata
L overa, Jose Rafael.
Food culture in South America / Jose Rafael Lovera ; translated by Ainoa Larrauri.
p . c m. — (Food culture aroundthe world, ISSN 1545-2638)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 0-313-32752-1 ( alk. p aper)
1. C ookery, Latin American. 2. C ookery—South A merica. 3. Food h abits—South
A merica. I. Title. II. Series.
TX716.A1L68 2005
6 41.598—dc22
2 005005501
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data is available.
Copyright © 2005 by Jose Rafael Lovera
All rights reserved. N oportion of this book may be
reproduced, by any process or technique, without the
express written consent of the publisher.
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2 005005501
I SBN: 0-313-32752-1
ISSN: 1545-2638
First published in 2005
Greenwood Press, 88 Post Road West, Westport, C T 06881
A n imprint of Greenwood Publishing Group, Inc.
www.greenwood.com
Printed in the United States ofAmerica

T h e paper used in this book complies with the
Permanent Paper Standard issued by the National
Information Standards Organization ( Z39.48-1984).
10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

Illustrations by J. Susan Cole Stone.
T h e publisher has done its best to make sure the instructions and/or recipes in this book
are correct. However, users should apply judgment andexperience when preparing recipes, e specially parents and teachers working with young people. T h e publisher accepts no
responsibility for the outcome of any recipe included in this volume.

Contents
Series Foreword by Ken Albala

vii

Acknowledgments

ix

Introduction

xi

Timeline

xv

1. H istorical Overview

1

2 . Major Foods and Ingredients

39

3 . C ooking

774 . Typical Meals

93

5 . E ating Out

127

6. Special Occasions

137

7 . D iet and Health

153

Glossary

165

Resource Guide

167

Bibliography

175

Index

177

This page intentionally left blank

Series Foreword
T he appearance of the Food Culture around the World series marks a
definitive stage in the maturation of Food Studies as a discipline toreach
a wider audience of students, general readers, and foodies alike. In c omprehensive interdisciplinary reference volumes, each on the food culture
of a country or region for which information is most in demand, a r emarkable team of experts from around the world offers a deeper understanding
and appreciation of the role of food in shaping human culture for a whole
new generation. I amhonored to have been associated with this project
as series editor.
Each volume follows a series format, with a chronology of f ood-related
d ates and narrative chapters entitled Introduction, Historical Overview,
Major Foods and Ingredients, Cooking, Typical Meals, Eating Out, Special Occasions, and Diet and Health. Each also includes a glossary, bibliography, resource guide, and illustrations.Finding or growing food has of course been the major preoccupation of
our species throughout history, but how various peoples around the world
learn to exploit their natural resources, come to esteem or shun specific
foods and develop unique cuisines reveals much more about what it is
to be human. There is perhaps no better way to understand a culture, its
values, preoccupations and fears, thanby examining its attitudes toward
food. Food provides the daily sustenance around which families and communities bond. It provides the material basis for rituals through which
people celebrate the passage of life stages and their connection to divinity.

Vlll

Series Foreword

Food preferences also serve to separate individuals and groups from each
other, and as one of the most...