Gradduacion de moldes

GRADATION

INTRODUCTION
Grading in fashion industry is one of the most important works. It demands great precision and many various manipulations. Chosen sizes are produced in the factory according to a target market that is already established. There are many job opportunity in grading: the ranges are junior, missy, children’s, men’s etc.

Choice of sizes is determined by the industrybased on their sizes used. It is developed from a basic sample. The progression between each size could vary from one manufacturer to another. For example: one manufacturer will add 3 cm between size 8 and 10, while another could add 1 cm for the same size grade.

Manipulation is quite the same in most procedures. All movements flows from left to right. To standardize the vocabulary,horizontal and vertical is constantly used.
If we move horizontally, it is in the direction of the width of the human body as in the bust line, waist, hips, etc.
When you move vertically, it is in the direction of lengthwise of the person, either back or front, center, lateral, sleeve length, etc.

For computer grading, all moves are based in “X” and “Y” axis. Its evolution is based in the “positive+” or the “negative –“.
Each grading point always starts at Zero “0” and has its own proper coordination. Evidently one has to study the grading software when one is using it.

For this manual grading course, we will grade from size 6 to 14 and the base size will be the size 10. The students will be required to trace the size 10 grading blocks prior to the lesson in lightweight cardboard.They will grade each size on similar cardboard and will cut the sizes out so that they can grade the next sizes in either direction. After the grading is complete the student align the grade nest as it is shown in the notes provided and the grade nest is handed in for evaluation and assessment.

For the group marker students are divided into teams of 3 or 4. Using the patterns previously graded;Basic Back Skirt, Pocketed Skirt, Basic Front and Back Skirt Bodices using sizes 6 – 14) the students are to layout an entire marker. A target length is given (this is predetermined by the lecturer) as well as which sizes should go in same direction in the lay and which should go in opposite directions. Patterns used for the marker should be passed up with marker for the evaluation to checkaccuracy.

Included in this document are the patterns to be used as well as Size Charts, and Movement charts with diagrams to be used as guides for students.
GRADATION OF SKIRT

|SIZE |6 |8 |10 |12 |14 |16 |18 |
|CM |2.4 |2.4 |0.0 |4.0|4.0 |4.8 |4.8 |

HORIZONTAL
|A |0.2 | | | |0.4 |0.6 |0.8 |
|DART |0.2 |0.0 |0.0 |0.2 |0.2 |0.2 |0.2 |

|B |1.2 || | |2cm |3.2 |4.4 |
|LATERAL |0.6 |0.6 |0.0 |1cm |1cm |1.2 |1.2 |

The gradation of the skirt is done in the horizontal movement.

MOVEMENT

1. CENTRE – SIZE 0 Movement
2. DART – SIZE 1 Movement A
3. CENTRE OF DART
4 – 5 – 6 LATERAL1 Movement B

GRADATION OF SKIRT
GRADATION OF WAISTBAND

|SIZE |6 |8 |10 |12 |14 |16 |18 |
|CM |2.4 |2.4 |0.0 |4.0 |4.0 |4.8 |4.8 |

HORIZONTAL
|A |0.6 |0.6...