Hfe Dry Cell

The HFE Dry Cell looks to be the most promising and efficient for use in an auto or on a small engine. Its smaller size works better for the space limitations in newer vehicles. It eliminates voltageleaking from the plate edges. It cools itself using natural water circulation, and lends itself to adding a pump easily. The refill tank is easier to control Catalyst levels, and acts as a bubbler atthe same time. The size of plates is dependent on room available, so you can make them as large or small as needed, square, rectangular, or any shape. The plates need 2 holes, one at the top for gasto exit, one at the bottom for water to enter. The thinner the plates the better, mine are .055 inch, 11 plates in a +NNNN-NNNN+ configuration for a total plate thickness of 0.605” The gaskets need tobe rubber, PVC, etc to seal the plates. An old inner tube works fairly well, and your imagination will find other usable seals. Mine are .0625 thick inner tube, for a total gasket thickness of .75”.The Outside Plates which hold the unit together can be any material available, I've seen pics/videos using Acrylic and even wood. The water inlet needs to be opposite the plate water holes, and thegas outlet is opposite the plates upper gas holes. And of course the bolt holes that hold it all together, too few and it wont seal, too many and you get interference with the electrical connections.The bolt need to be insulated from contacting the plates, I used vinyl tubing, cut to the finished (compressed) size. Since the vinyl can be compressed somewhat the length isn't real critical. Mine is1” acrylic salvaged from a hockey arena. The total width of my cell is 2.355” thick, plus the bolt heads and nuts, and fittings, since I needed a rectangular unit I made it 2” x 4”, with 1/8 inch widegaskets, leaving 1 3/4” x 3 ¾ plate surface showing, for a total surface area of 131.25 sq inches. So at about 1 watt per sq in to produce 1lpm, I'll need 132 watts, thats about 11amps, well within...