Principios Basicos De La Coloracion Textil
Páginas: 785 (196130 palabras)
Publicado: 2 de septiembre de 2011
Basic Principles of Textile Coloration
Arthur D Broadbent
Professor, Université de Sherbrooke, Département de génie chimique, Faculté de génie, Sherbrooke, QC, J1K 2R1, Canada
2001 Society of Dyers and Colourists
iii
Copyright © 2001 Society of Dyers and Colourists. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in anyform or by any means without the prior permission of the copyright owners. Published by the Society of Dyers and Colourists, PO Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, West Yorkshire BD1 2JB, England, on behalf of the Dyers’ Company Publications Trust. This book was produced under the auspices of the Dyers’ Company Publications Trust. The Trust was instituted by the Worshipful Company ofDyers of the City of London in 1971 to encourage the publication of textbooks and other aids to learning in the science and technology of colour and coloration and related fields. The Society of Dyers and Colourists acts as trustee to the fund, its Textbooks Committee being the Trust’s technical subcommittee. Typeset by the Society of Dyers and Colourists and printed by Thanet Press Ltd, Kent.ISBN 0 901956 76 7
iv
Contents
Preface xiii
CHAPTER 1 1.1 1.2 1.3
An introduction to textiles, dyes and dyeing
1
Historical background 1 Modern textiles 10 Colour, dyes and dyeing 13 References 19
CHAPTER 2 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5
Fibres and textiles: properties and processing
20
Properties of fibres 20 Production and properties of yarns 22 Fabric manufacture 25Preparation for dyeing 29 Dyeing and finishing 32 References 33
CHAPTER 3 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4
Fibrous polymers
34
Polymer structure 34 Molecular organisation in fibres 40 Intermolecular forces 42 Thermal properties of polymers 45 References 49
CHAPTER 4 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5
Synthetic fibres
50
Synthetic fibres 50 Nylon fibres 51 Polyesters 58 Acrylic fibres 65 Other synthetic fibres 68References 69
v
CHAPTER 5 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5
Natural cellulosic fibres
70
Introduction 70 Cotton 70 Cellulose 74 Cotton processing 80 Other vegetable fibres 90 References 91
CHAPTER 6 6.1 6.2 6.3
Artificially made fibres based on cellulose
92
The first regenerated cellulose fibres 92 Viscose fibre 93 Cellulose acetates 102 References 106
CHAPTER 7 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5Protein fibres
107
Introduction 107 Structure of wool fibres 107 Physical and chemical properties of wool 116 Wool processing 122 Speciality animal fibres 128 References 129
CHAPTER 8 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5
Water treatment
130
Water quality for the dyehouse 130 Water hardness 132 Water softening 138 Boiler water 144 Dyehouse effluent and its treatment 146 References 151
vi CHAPTER 9 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4
Auxiliary chemicals for wet processing and dyeing
152
Impurities in textile fibres 153 Surface activity of detergents 155 Synthetic surfactants 164 Other applications of surfactants 172 References 173
CHAPTER 10 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5
An introduction to dyes and dyeing
174
Dyes 174 Dyeing methods 177 Dyebath and fabric preparation 179 Terms usedin direct exhaust dyeing 180 Continuous dyeing 190 References 196
CHAPTER 11 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4
Dyeing theory
197
Dyeing equilibria 197 Dyeing kinetics 207 Aggregation of dyes 213 Conclusion 214 References 214
CHAPTER 12 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6
Dyeing machinery
215
Basic features of batch dyeing machines 215 Dyeing machines for loose fibre and sliver 216 Machines fordyeing yarn 218 Machines for dyeing fabric 223 Dyeing machines for specific articles 233 Continuous dyeing equipment 234 References 239
vii
CHAPTER 13 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.4 13.5 13.6 13.7 13.8 13.9 13.10 13.11 13.12 13.13
Acid, metallised and mordant dyes
240
General description of acid dyes 240 Classification of acid dyes 241 The application of acid dyes in dyeing wool 243...
Arthur D Broadbent
Professor, Université de Sherbrooke, Département de génie chimique, Faculté de génie, Sherbrooke, QC, J1K 2R1, Canada
2001 Society of Dyers and Colourists
iii
Copyright © 2001 Society of Dyers and Colourists. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in anyform or by any means without the prior permission of the copyright owners. Published by the Society of Dyers and Colourists, PO Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, West Yorkshire BD1 2JB, England, on behalf of the Dyers’ Company Publications Trust. This book was produced under the auspices of the Dyers’ Company Publications Trust. The Trust was instituted by the Worshipful Company ofDyers of the City of London in 1971 to encourage the publication of textbooks and other aids to learning in the science and technology of colour and coloration and related fields. The Society of Dyers and Colourists acts as trustee to the fund, its Textbooks Committee being the Trust’s technical subcommittee. Typeset by the Society of Dyers and Colourists and printed by Thanet Press Ltd, Kent.ISBN 0 901956 76 7
iv
Contents
Preface xiii
CHAPTER 1 1.1 1.2 1.3
An introduction to textiles, dyes and dyeing
1
Historical background 1 Modern textiles 10 Colour, dyes and dyeing 13 References 19
CHAPTER 2 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5
Fibres and textiles: properties and processing
20
Properties of fibres 20 Production and properties of yarns 22 Fabric manufacture 25Preparation for dyeing 29 Dyeing and finishing 32 References 33
CHAPTER 3 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4
Fibrous polymers
34
Polymer structure 34 Molecular organisation in fibres 40 Intermolecular forces 42 Thermal properties of polymers 45 References 49
CHAPTER 4 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5
Synthetic fibres
50
Synthetic fibres 50 Nylon fibres 51 Polyesters 58 Acrylic fibres 65 Other synthetic fibres 68References 69
v
CHAPTER 5 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5
Natural cellulosic fibres
70
Introduction 70 Cotton 70 Cellulose 74 Cotton processing 80 Other vegetable fibres 90 References 91
CHAPTER 6 6.1 6.2 6.3
Artificially made fibres based on cellulose
92
The first regenerated cellulose fibres 92 Viscose fibre 93 Cellulose acetates 102 References 106
CHAPTER 7 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5Protein fibres
107
Introduction 107 Structure of wool fibres 107 Physical and chemical properties of wool 116 Wool processing 122 Speciality animal fibres 128 References 129
CHAPTER 8 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5
Water treatment
130
Water quality for the dyehouse 130 Water hardness 132 Water softening 138 Boiler water 144 Dyehouse effluent and its treatment 146 References 151
vi CHAPTER 9 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4
Auxiliary chemicals for wet processing and dyeing
152
Impurities in textile fibres 153 Surface activity of detergents 155 Synthetic surfactants 164 Other applications of surfactants 172 References 173
CHAPTER 10 10.1 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5
An introduction to dyes and dyeing
174
Dyes 174 Dyeing methods 177 Dyebath and fabric preparation 179 Terms usedin direct exhaust dyeing 180 Continuous dyeing 190 References 196
CHAPTER 11 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4
Dyeing theory
197
Dyeing equilibria 197 Dyeing kinetics 207 Aggregation of dyes 213 Conclusion 214 References 214
CHAPTER 12 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6
Dyeing machinery
215
Basic features of batch dyeing machines 215 Dyeing machines for loose fibre and sliver 216 Machines fordyeing yarn 218 Machines for dyeing fabric 223 Dyeing machines for specific articles 233 Continuous dyeing equipment 234 References 239
vii
CHAPTER 13 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.4 13.5 13.6 13.7 13.8 13.9 13.10 13.11 13.12 13.13
Acid, metallised and mordant dyes
240
General description of acid dyes 240 Classification of acid dyes 241 The application of acid dyes in dyeing wool 243...
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