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Páginas: 7 (1747 palabras) Publicado: 27 de junio de 2011
Per-se
In Per Se, Thomas Keller has successfully created an urban interpretation of The French Laundry for New York.
Salmon Cornet and signature Oysters and Pearls open the meal at both. Daily menus offer nine petite courses of perfectly wrought modern US cuisine.
Snake River Farm beef with crispy bone marrow or spring lamb with butter poached morels deliver an experience that have earnt PerSe international recognition.
Per Se has embarked on a new era, with Chef Eli Kaimeh having taken control of the stove earlier this year.
Dirreccion:10 Columbus Circle (at 60th Street), 4th Floor, New York, NY 10019, USA
Per se, New York-- Opened in 2004, Per Se is located in Manhattan in New York. Its owner is well known Chef Thomas Keller who is also the executive chef of the restaurant. PerSe is the urban counterpart of Kellar's other well known restaurant--The French Laundry. The magnificent blue door with contrasting wooden ascent inside provides a beautiful decor. The menu consists of two nine course meals, a chef's special and a vegetarian, which is just sensational. The restaurant also boasts of 1200 bottle wine list.
During the course of one of my long, exhaustively intricatemeals at Per Se, Thomas Keller’s new restaurant in the Time Warner Center, one of my guests experienced an epiphany peculiar to New Yorkers of a certain overly sophisticated kind. Already we’d sampled coddled eggs tipped with black-truffle purée, and the chef’s famous “oysters and pearls” (Island Creek oysters, pearly tapioca, Osetra caviar). We’d listened to informative disquisitions on thechef’s vaunted and quirky purveyors (the eggs were hand-picked by a rabbi in upstate New York named Zvi) and watched as four varieties of salt (part of a foie gras creation called peach melba) were laid out on a silver tray with intense precision, like lines of cocaine. Then a little flight of lobster tails arrived, each one poached in butter, each one painted (with saffron-vanilla sauce, red-beetessence, or vermouth) in an artful and uniquely delicious way. My guest took a bite of his lobster, leaned back in his chair, and gave a little sigh. “I’m sorry,” he said. “I just can’t bring myself to bitch about any of this.”
Keller knows all about jaded, bitchy New Yorkers, of course. His first high-profile venture in Manhattan, a restaurant called Rakel, famously bombed in the early nineties. Hefled to the Napa Valley and set up his kitchen in an old laundry building in the hamlet of Yountville, where he became, in due course, the most celebrated chef in all the land. The French Laundry is widely touted as the best restaurant in America, and Per Se seems to have been conceived, rather self-consciously, as its august big-city sibling. The rooms, which look out across the treetops ofCentral Park, feel grand but mildly antiseptic. The main dining room is colored, by the designer Adam Tihany, in muted tones of gray and brown, and decorated, at either end, with towering arrangements of foxtail lilies. The hyperattentive and hyperinformed wait staff are dressed in starchy dark suits and fat Armani ties, and as they troop silently to and fro in the ghostly evening light, the wholescene looks elegant but solemn and vaguely stagy, like a studious California version of what a first-class New York restaurant should be.
There’s nothing stagy or solemn about the food, however, which is beautifully conceived, elegantly presented (on a new Thomas Keller line of dishes by Raynaud), and as varied as the colors of the rainbow. The menu, which changes daily, is a jumble of bite-sizetastings, the most modest of which involves five courses ($125) including cheese and dessert. The standard chef’s tasting menu ($150) is nine courses, and one eventful evening, dining in the company of a well-connected media friend (without connections, the wait for a table at Per Se is two months), I got caught up in a seventeen-course meal. I never got out of Per Se in under four hours, but this...
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