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ISO Stitch Terminology

AMERICAN & EFIRD, INC

Page 1 of 3

Stitch Drawing Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn
Single Thread Chainstitch

ISO 4915 Common Number Application

Requirements

Stitch Description
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlooping with itself on the underside of the seam with the assistance of a spreader. Knit Shirts -Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed horizontally, with approximately 85-90 stitches

101

Basting Stitch for Specify SPI. Tailored Clothing; Bag Closing 1) Buttonsew Specify stitches per cycle (Ex. 8,16, 32) 2) BH - Specify length & width (1/2”, etc.) 3) Bartack - Specify length & width of tack. Blindstitch Specify Hemming, 1) SPI 3 - 5 SPI Felling, Making 2) Non-skip or 2 to 1 BeltLoops skipped stitch Buttonsew, Buttonhole, or Bartack

Single Thread Chainstitch or Lockstitch Buttonsew, Buttonhole or Bartack

* 304 Lockstitch is preferred when stitch security is a Must.

101 or 304

Single Thread Blindstitch

No stitch visible on the Bottom or Outside of Sewn Product

103

Stitch is formed with one needle thread that is interlooped with itself on the top surfaceof the material. The thread passes through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without completely penetrating it the full depth. Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks the same top & bottom. Stitch is formed with a needle and a bobbin that are setin the center of the seam and form a symmetrical zig-zag pattern. Also, used to identify bartacking and lockstitch buttonsewing and buttonholing. Stitch formed by 1-needle thread passing through the material and interlooped with 1-looper thread and pulled up to the underside of the seam.

Lockstitch - Most Common of All Stitches

Bobbin Thread on Bottom

301

Topstitching, Specify SPI.Single Needle Stitching, Straight Stitching Intimate Apparel, Specify Athletic wear, 1) SPI Infantwear, 2) Throw or width Exercisewear Zig-Zag (1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4") Single Needle Specify SPI. Chainstitch Mainseams on Wovens

Zig Zag Lockstitch

304

Chainstitch

Looper Thread on Bottom

401

Zig Zag Chainstitch

Looper Thread on Bottom

404

Zig-Zag Specify Chainstitch for 1) SPIInfantwear and 2) Throw or width Childrenswear: Zig-Zag (1/8”, Binding, 3/16”, 1/4") Topstitching, etc.

Stitch is formed with a needle and a looper that are set on the underside of the seam and form a symmetrical zig-zag pattern.

ISO Stitch Terminology

AMERICAN & EFIRD, INC

Page 2 of 3

Stitch Drawing Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn
2 Needle Bottom Coverstitch Looper Thread onBottom

ISO 4915 Common Number Application

Requirements
Specify 1) Needle spacing (1/8”, 3/16”, 1/4") 2) SPI Specify 1) Needle spacing (1/4") 2) SPI

Stitch Description
Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads providing seam coverageon the bottom side only. Stitch formed by 3-needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread is interlooped between needle threads providing seam coverage on the bottom side only. Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 2-looper threads with the stitches seton the underside of the seam. A top spreader thread is interlaced on the top side of the seam between the two needle threads.

406

3 Needle Bottom Coverstitch

Looper Thread on Bottom

407

Hemming, Attaching, Elastic, Binding, Coverseaming, Making Belt Loops Attaching Elastic to Men's & Boys Knit Underwear

2 Needle Chainstitch with Cover Thread

Looper Thread on Bottom

408...