B vmñlm

COSTUMES

NORWAY

The bunad is a traditional Norwegian costume worn by both men and women.  It can either come from established rural traditions or have a more modern design inspired by historical patterns and cuts.  Traditionally bunads represented the family home and the area people came from but now in the modern world where moving from place to place is a necessity, Norwegians wear thebunad tradition from the place to which they have the strongest attachment.
Today the bunad is worn for celebrations and special occasions.  During the wedding season (May-June), you often see Norwegians dressed in their bunads on Saturdays walking to and from Churches.  Baptisms and Confirmations, Balls and Norwegian Constitution Day are typically bunad wearing days.
Left: Bunad with marriageheaddress.  Right: Norwegian immigrants (in the U.S) wearing their bunads.
The bunad, meaning ‘clothing’, is a fairly recent development in Norwegian culture.  The more ‘authentic’ bunads are modelled off old folk attire worn in certain regions that developed over the centuries.  Even though old folk wear (commonly called ‘folk costumes’ in Norway) evloved because of daily life, regional traditionsand celebrations, the bunad only borrows from the more festive forms of traditional folk clothing.
The National Bunad Council Bunad- og Folkedraktrådet , the authority on national costumes appointed by the government, has developed five categories to grade modern day bunads according to ‘authentic’ regional folk clothing:
Category 1 – a bunad that represents a ‘final’ link’ in the developmentof a folk costume.  This is basically an original folk costume that has taken on the function of a bunad.
Category 2 – a bunad that has a background in a particular folk costume that is out of use but not forgotten.  It is generally reconstructed from first-hand knowledge.
Category 3 – a bunad that has been reconstructed from preserved folk garments which reflect the actually time and region ofthe piece.  Pictures and writings are used as sources in reconstruction.
Category 4 – a bunad that has been made based on random and incomplete folk material.  Missing peices have been designed to match the style of the materials.
Category 5 – a bunad that has been completely or partically ‘freely composed’.  It was the 1800s bunad movement that has given these types of bunad their status.
New‘bunads’ that are being designed every year, must go through the strict judgement process of the National Bunad Council in order to be classified as a proper ‘bunad’.  The council is very strict in making sure new additions follow closely the traditions and history of the area.  Because of this, many designs today, even though they have the same function as a bunad, generally don’t make the cut andthus can not be called ‘bunads’.  They recieve the name ‘festive costumes’ instead.
Because of the strict ‘authentic’ requirements set by the National Bunad Council, Bunads are very expensive.  Traditionally bunads use hand-made gold and silver jewellery to decorate.  These often get upgraded or added to from certain life achievements such as confirmations, marriage or authority.  Some bunads canalso have elements of silver or gold in the thread.
The normal fabric of a bunad dress or coat is wool.  Mens pants are often made from hodden which is wool that has been pressed into shape rather than woven.  Shirts are made from either linen or cotton, and shawls and aprons are normally wool or silk.  A purse is part of nearly every female’s bunad with matching fabric and embroidery.  When awoman is getting married in her bunad she wears a gold crown, headress or elaborite jewellery on her head.  She also carries a small bible in her purse and can wear a veil if it has been designed into her traditional costme.  It is also common for married women to wear a silver belt.  Women who have authority, such as matrons, carry a key as symbolic decoration.
Traditional Men’s and women’s...