Tutorial Para Hacer Un Corset

ORIA Please make all your measurements in METRIC rather than IMPERIAL as you will have to use a calculator to work out all of your deductions for the waist and it's easier unless your like me and do it the old fashioned way!HORIZONTAL MEASUREMENTS (in pink)Take all your measurements shown in the diagram, (1) - (2) (the front of body is usually slightly wider than the back so do them separatelyand add them together after so that you have an overall calculation as well as the two half's)... (2) - (3) and repeat at (a) (b) and (c). Lastly measure along from (1) to (5). Ideally you will have a friend or partner who can help you with this, sometimes it helps to get some tape and tape yourself around the body at all the lines on the diagram so that the centre doesn't move as you take differentmeasurements, I did this for my own measurements.VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS (in green and blue)Now measure down from (6) down to (5) (this should be a length that you feel would happily cover your nipple, you can be as risque as you like or cover yourself modestly unless of course you decide to adapt this to make an underbust corset!)  then (1) down to (1a) down to (1b) down to (1c). Once you have allyour measurements down on paper now comes the basic pattern block...DRAUGHTING YOUR BASIC PATTERNDraw a box that is as wide as your total hip measurement and tall as the centre front from the hip up to the overbust line add in all your other horizontal measurements i.e waist, underbust etc and lastly your vertical side line.now for the little bit of maths! go grab a calculator.A happy cinch on acorset is 4 inches, seeing as you are working on one half of the pattern you need to subtract 2 inches from your waist measurement (remember we are now making calculations based on the front and back combined).You have to make a decision on how many panels you want in your corset, take a look at your favourite reference and see what they have done. for the sakes of this example we will have 5divisions, these are the red lines on the diagram (this will make 6 panels, 12 on the final corset).DEDUCTING THE WAIST and UNDERBUSTAs an example here is a calculation based on a fake figure:OVERBUST - T” wideCENTRE BUST - W" wideUNDERBUST -  V" wideWAIST - X" (minus an extra 2") wideHIPS - Y" wideSo in simpler terms...Hip Y” minus waist X” minus 2” = U” (take U” ÷ 5) = Z”deduct each Z” at eachvertical line on the waist and underbust, overbust etc...Hip Y” minus underbust V” = U” (take U” and ÷ 5) = Z”Hip Y” minus centrebust W” = U” (take U” and ÷ 5) = Z”Hip Y” minus overbust T” = U” (take U” and ÷ 5) = Z”DRAUGHTING PANELSNUMBER EVERY PANEL on your draught 1 - 6 front to back and number every layer of fabric... 1-6R and 1-6L for each side of the corset to save any heartache orconfusion!Taking your basic pattern layout and divide this up with vertical lines x 5, it's sometimes helpful to make the front panel (1) slightly narrower and your back panel (6) slightly wider so that you can make larger reduction if needed for cinching (remember corsets need to have a 3-4 inch gap at the back for tightening!). This doesn't have to be an exact science, just go with your natural instinct. Soto clarify at each vertical line on the waist draw the deduction (i.e Z inches).Repeat the calculation for the underbust line and also the centre breast/underarm line, you will be left with a 'join the dots' image where you now connect the dots with a ruler creating what look like darts at each vertical line.At this point you can start to soften the ruler lines with hand drawn curves or use a curverule if you have one, I added a little extra curve on the hip between the waist and hip. Don't be too generous just make the line more organic.Now the last bit is dealing with the overbust line, as this will be narrower than the centre breast line and you will have to use reduction only on the vertical lines 1 and 2 around the boob and not on the back half, you can double check your newly drawn...