Convergent cosmetics

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CONVERGENT COSMETICS

2393 Blaine Avenue Orono, MN 55391 (952) 906-0771 FAX: (952) 906-9781 www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

Emulsions and the HLB System
All creams and lotions have one thing in common. They are both emulsions. An emulsion is a system of two (or more) immiscible materials (usually liquids) in which one material (the dispersed/internal phase) is suspended or dispersed throughoutanother material (the continuous/external phase) in separate droplets. Most emulsions fall into two different classes, oil in water emulsions and water in oil emulsions. In oil in water emulsions, we have hundreds of tiny oil droplets surrounded by water.

In water in oil emulsions, we have the opposite situation. We have hundreds of water droplets surrounded by oil. One of the simplestemulsions is a simple vinegar and oil salad dressing. One of the problems with this simple emulsion is that the oil and vinegar don’t mix. To emulsify the vinegar into the oil, we can use an egg yolk. Egg yolks contain a natural emulsifier call Lecithin. Most creams and lotions on the market today are oil in water emulsions.

CONVERGENT COSMETICS

2393 Blaine Avenue Orono, MN 55391 (952) 906-0771FAX: (952) 906-9781 www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

In 1949, William C. (Bill) Griffin developed the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance System or HLB System when he was a chemist at the Atlas Powder Company, which eventually became ICI Surfactants and is part of Uniqema today. All emulsifier have two parts; like a bar magnet. A bar magnet has a north pole and a south pole. Nonionic emulsifiers also have twopoles or parts. An emulsifier molecule has one part that loves water and one part loves oil. The water loving part is called hydrophilic; "hydro-` meaning water and "-philic" meaning to love or like. The other part of the emulsifier molecule is lipophilic; if "lipo-" means fat or oil, then lipophilic means oil loving.

Therefore, an emulsifier has a hydrophilic part and a lipophilic part. Thebalance of these two portions of the emulsifier gives us the Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB). The HLB of emulsifiers can be calculated or determined through trial and error. According to the HLB System, all fats and oils have a Required HLB. For example, if I wanted to emulsify Soybean Oil, which has a required HLB of7, I would need to use an emulsifier or blend of emulsifiers that had a HLB of7 ± 1. Before we can select our emulsifiers that we will need, we must know the required HLB of our oil phase. Let's start calculating the required HLB of an Oil Phase.

CONVERGENT COSMETICS

2393 Blaine Avenue Orono, MN 55391 (952) 906-0771 FAX: (952) 906-9781 www.ConvergentCosmetics.com

Below is a list of oils and waxes and their respective required HLBs.

INCI Nomenclature [RHLB ± 1]Aleurites Moluccana Seed Oil [7] Almond Oil NF [6] Anhydrous Lanolin USP [10] Apricot Kernel Oil [7] Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil [7] Babassu Oil [8] Beeswax [12] Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil [7] Brazil Nut Oil [8] C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate [13] Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil [7] Canola Oil [7] Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride [5] Carrot (Daucus Carota Sativa) Seed Oil [6] Castor (Ricinus Communis)Oil [14] Ceresin [8] Cetearyl Alcohol [15.5] Cetyl Alcohol [15.5] Cetyl Esters [10] Cetyl Palmitate [10] Coconut Oil [8] Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract [6] Diisopropyl Adipate [9] Dimethicone [5] Dog Rose (Rosa Canina) Hips Oil [7] Emu Oil [8] Evening Primrose Oil [7] Grape (Vitis Vinifera) Seed Oil [7] Hybrid Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil [9] Isopropyl Myristate [11.5]Isopropyl Palmitate [11.5] Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil [6.5] Lanolin [10] Macadamia (Ternifolia) Nut Oil [7] Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter [8] Mineral Oil [10.5] Myristyl Myristate [8.5] Olive (Olea Europaea) Oil [7] Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil [7] Peanut Oil NF [6] Petrolatum [7] PPG-15 Stearyl Ether [7] Retinyl Palmitate [6] Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius) Oil [8] Sesame (Sesamum Indicum)...
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