Tendencias De Moda
sKETChBooK
sixth edition
Heads Flesh Tones Figure Work Mixed Media Fabric
Rendering
Design Detail
Bina aBling
FASHION SKETCHBOOK sixth edition
BINA ABLING
Fairchild Books | New York
Executive Director & General Manager: Michael Schluter Executive Editor: Olga T. Kontzias Senior Associate Acquiring Editor: Jaclyn Bergeron Assistant Acquisitions Editor: AmandaBreccia Associate Art Director: Sarah Silberg Development Editor: Beth Cohen Production Director: Ginger Hillman Senior Production Editor: Elizabeth Marotta Ancillaries Editor: Amy Butler Associate Director of Sales: Melanie Sankel Copyeditor: Susan Hobbs Cover Design: Carly Grafstein Cover Art: illustrations by Bina Abling, photography by Giovanni Giannoni (Gianfranco Ferre Spring 2012 RTW) TextDesign and Composition: Carly Grafstein Photo Research: Avital Aronowitz Videographer and DVD Developer: Katie Fitzsimmons Camera Assistants: Frank Marino and Jay Catlett
Copyright © 2012 Fairchild Books, a Division of Condé Nast Publications. All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, ormechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: ISBN: 978-1-60901-228-1 GST R 133004424 Printed in Canada TP 14
Contents
Extended Contents Preface Tools and Equipment Hints Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Fashion Archive Credits Index Fashion Figure Proportions Basic Figure Forms Model Drawing Fashion Heads Garments and Garment Details Drawing Flats and Specs Basic Rendering Techniques High-End Rendering Techniques Drawing Knits Design Focus and Layout Drawing Men Drawing Children Accessories vii xi xiii 1 37 61 81 107 141 181 223 265 295 329 377 411 443475 477
v
Extended Contents
Preface Acknowledgments Tools and Equipment Hints
xi xii xiii 1
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34
CHAPTER 3 Model Drawing
Model Drawing Poses Balance Line Angles in a Pose Torso in a Pose Gesture Components Interpreting Anatomy Fashion Runway and Showroom Poses
61
62 63 64 66 68 70 72
CHAPTER 1 Fashion Figure Proportions
FigureElongation and Stylization Guidelines Heads Tall, Figure Grid Figure Map, Grid System Consistent Proportions Fashion Figure Objectives Croquis Templates Drawing the Figure Freehand Subjective Height Posing Dynamics The Balance Line Center Front Back Views The Profile Pose The Fuller Figure Fashion Maternity Figures Early Illustrations for Womenswear
CHAPTER 4 Fashion Heads
Drawing Heads andFashion Faces Drawing Heads The Diamond Technique Drawing a Full-Front Head Drawing a Three-Quarter-Turned Head Drawing a Profile Head Fashion Faces, Sketching Features Posing the Head Sketching Features Stylizing the Face Rendering Hair Color Fleshtone and Pencil Period Looks Fashion Heads, Runway Looks
81
82 84 86 87 88 89 90 92 94 96 98 100 101 102
CHAPTER 2 Basic Figure Forms
TorsoDefinition Drawing Legs: Form and Shape Posing Legs Foreshortening: Legs Drawing Feet Drawing Arms: Form and Shape Foreshortening: Arms Drawing Hands Figure Tips
37
38 40 42 44 46 50 52 54 56
CHAPTER 5 Garments and Garment Details 107
Sketching Necklines and Collars Sketching Sleeves Sketching Blouses and Dresses Sketching Skirts Sketching Flares and Gathers Sketching Pleats 108 110 112 114 116 118vii
Blouses, Skirts, and Dresses Sketching Pants Drawing Pants Shorts and Pants Sketching a Blazer Drawing Jackets Drawing Coats Jackets and Coats
120 122 124 126 128 130 132 134 136 138
Fall Fabrics Animal Prints Fashion Designer Color Challenges André Courrèges Emilio Pucci/Carolina Herrera Rudi Gernreich Geoffrey Beene/James Galanos Arnold Scaasi
204 208 210 211 212 213 214...
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