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Leopard Gecko

Eublepharis macularius
By Cody Castellanos

Pro Geckos

General Information: Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) or leo for slang originated from the Middle East - Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan area. Adults can obtain lengths of 8-12 inches long and weigh 60-100+ grams (g) in captivity. Babies are around 3 inches and average 3g in weight. Leopard geckos are aterrestrial animal which means they are ground dwellers. Being nocturnal they are most active at night. They are one of the most popular and easiest geckos to keep in captivity. This care sheet will give you the information you need to keep your gecko happy and healthy. With proper care a leopard gecko can easily live up to 20 years.

Housing: Leopards are very easy to house. A pair (1 male and 1female) can live comfortably in a 10 gallon glass aquarium but larger is always better. Most breeders use some kind of rack system. Racks are easier because one can fit more geckos in a given area than with aquariums. Aquariums however are clear giving you the opportunity to view them better and see their natural behaviors. I house my adult leopard geckos in 28 quart Rubbermaid containers and hatchlingsin 6 quart tubs. Never keep an animal in cramped quarters. This can cause stress and lead to other health issues. Substrate - The best substrate to use is paper, newspaper, paper towel, slate or tile. I suggest not using sand at all as the gecko may become impacted. Impaction is when the gecko ingests sand which can build up and block the intestine. This is usually in an attempt to get calcium(see below for supplementation). My animals are all kept on paper or paper towel just for the impaction reason. If you’re looking for a more naturalistic look and have to use sand make sure it is as fine as possible. Zoo Meds Repti-sand or Jurassic sand is suitable. Another option is to go with slate or tile. Don’t ever use aquarium gravel, walnut shells or calcium sand. These substrates can be fatalif caught in the gecko’s digestive system. Never use cedar or pine shavings. These are toxic to reptiles. Hides - In order for the gecko to feel secure in its enclosure provide several hiding places. These can be as simple as inverted plant saucer pans, plants, wood etc. It’s a good idea to put a hide on both the warm end and cool end (discussed in heat section below) of the cage. This will allowthem to hide and feel comfortable on both ends of the cage. Along with a dry “dark” hide they need a humid container. The most popular is using a throw away container such as a glad or Tupperware container. Cut a hole in the lid and fill it with moist peat moss, sphagnum moss, forest bed (Coconut fiber) or paper towel. This will provide enough humidity to allow the gecko to shed properly. Heat andLight - Provide a hot spot of 88°-90°F on the warm end with the cool side of the cage in the

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Leopard Gecko

Eublepharis macularius
By Cody Castellanos

Pro Geckos

mid 70’s. It is very important to provide a temperature gradient for the animal. This is basically having a warm end and a cool end that will allow the animal toregulate its own body temperature. There are several different ways to provide proper heat. One is using under tank heating. This is a strip of heat tape or an under tank (UTH) heat map that runs under the cage. This is probably the best heat as it is direct belly heat. Another way is to provide a heat lamp with a 40 or 60w light bulb. This will give off heat and light. Because leopard geckos arenocturnal there is no need for special UVB lighting. The heat source will need to be somehow regulated. This can be achieved by using a rheostat or dimmer switch allowing you to adjust the temperature. Make sure to never overheat your geckos. Excessive heat even for a short period of time can and will most likely be fatal. Quarantine - Quarantining new animals is very important and should be...