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HUNDREDS of soaps, shampoos and skin creams call themselves organic, but their labels have long been confusing, even misleading. A moisturizing cream might be made with organic kiwi, strawberries, jojoba oil and aloe vera, but then mixed with synthetic preservatives. No government agency checked whether the ingredients were truly organic.
But now theAgriculture Department is applying its strict organic food standards to personal care products too. Two months ago, after years of wavering, the agency's National Organic Program declared that cosmetics can also be labeled with the familiar round, two-tone ''U.S.D.A. Organic'' seal.
Theoretically this is good news to the large and growing population of consumers who spent $4 billion last year for beautyproducts labeled natural or organic, often paying more for the satisfaction of buying products they consider pure or healthy. Megan Slate, 56, of Manhattan said that for her organic soaps and lotions were the third step in a progression away from synthetic substances that began with alternative medicines and organic foods.
''I also realize that it can be more labor-intensive, that you have to becareful about the source, that the shelf life might be a little shorter,'' Ms. Slate said. ''I understand both sides, and I choose organic.''
But much confusion is likely to remain over the Agriculture Department seal because so few organic beauty products are expected to qualify for it. Government licensed certifiers must examine the formulas of the products and determine that at least 95percent of the ingredients are organic. Many more products will end up labeled ''made with organic'' ingredients, a murkier designation. Some products that do not meet even the lower standard could possibly still use ''organic'' in their trademark names. And the new regulations can do nothing to clear up whether an organic beauty product is always a good thing.
The government's extension of theorganic seal was forced by a lawsuit brought by one of the oldest, most colorful makers of natural soaps, Dr. Bronner's, whose labels crammed with free adaptations of the wisdom of Longfellow, Chaucer and Confucius have amused bathers for years. ''Enjoy sink body rub to stimulate body-mind-soul-spirit'' is a typical label direction.
In June, Dr. Bronner's, based in Escondido, Calif., joined with theOrganic Consumers Association, an advocacy group, in a suit against the Agriculture Department to include personal care products in the organic certification program, which was limited to food. Since 2002 foods both fresh and packaged -- tree-ripened pears or bottled herbal salad dressings -- can be labeled organic only if they are made of farm products grown without synthetic fertilizers andpesticides, genetically engineered seeds or irradiation.
Dr. Bronner's argued that organic olive oil does not become nonagricultural just because it is used in massage oil rather than in salad dressing. On Aug. 23, the eve of a deadline for the agency to respond to the lawsuit, its National Organic Program issued a memo to organic certifiers that it would now include beauty products.
''The U.S.D.A.decided that the content is what matters in a product, not end use,'' said Joan Shaffer, speaking for the National Organic Program. ''Any agricultural product, regardless of its end use, that meets the N.O.P. standards and is certified may be labeled according to its organic content.''
David Bronner, the president of Dr. Bronner's, said that without the government's action the word ''organic'' oncosmetics would not be meaningful. ''The cosmetic industry is so full of hype in a bottle,'' Mr. Bronner said. ''It's such a marketing-driven industry, and it's just kind of a corrosive influence on the organic program.''
Dr. Bronner's has already put the organic seal on its Sun Dog's lotions and balms. Two other brands already using the seal are the Nourish line of body and face washes,...